May
15, 1983 Sunday From Gonzo!s Appalachian
Trail journal
2138 miles to go!
Although
the distance is just a fraction of what was to come, in order to
hike the Appalachian Trail from South to North, one must hike 8.7
miles to the trailhead in order to begin the arduous 2100 plus miles
along the longest continuously marked footpath in the world. But,
since the trail begins on the top of Springer Mountain that is exactly
what must be done. Springer Mountain, Georgia is where the trail
begins, and Jim and I had been driven to Georgia by my brother Carl
and his wife Cheryl, so that we could attempt to hike every last
one of those miles, through fourteen states, to the Northern Terminus
in Maine - Mount Katahdin. They took the time to begin the approach
trail to the trailhead with me and my hiking partner Jim Triplett,
my roommate from college. Although Carl and Cheryl did not hike
the entire eight miles to the summit of Springer Mountain with us,
they did hike to the head of Amicalola Falls located in the state
park where the approach trail begins. Eating a fresh banana, almost
the last of just about any fresh fruit that we would have for some
time, we said our goodbyes while placing a couple more bananas into
our packs for later. Determined to beat the odds, we headed for
the beginning of our trail adventure. I had been in this spot before.
I was somewhat aware of what I was getting into, but I don't think
that Jim realized what was in store for him. He was like me two
years ago when I attempted my first thru hike - my first ever backpacking
trip. He was perhaps lucky in that he had a "seasoned"
veteran along. But then again, that may have put him at a disadvantage
because I was ready to get up and go.
Both Jim and I bought heavy duty Vasque hiking boots in Carbondale
several months earlier; however, I had tried my boots out on a training
hike that followed part of the route as the "Hike across America"
trail used a few years earlier by a hiking group. Starting at the
site of the Grand Tower Ferry, I had hiked only two days and made
my way to Giant City State Park before calling it quits for the
remainder of spring break due to an extremely sore Achilles tendon
brought about by the stiffness of the new boots. With less than
two months to go before actually setting out on the Appalachian
Trail, I was beginning to wonder if I would even get to go since
the injury plagued me for a few weeks afterwards.
I took the boots to the local cobbler who allowed me to use his
bunion stretcher to expand critical areas in the heal area of the
boots. I gave him the boots and had the ¾ length steal shank
in the soles of the boots removed for a little bit more flexibility.
They were really mountaineering boots, not hiking boots.
Having
done all this, I chose to begin my hike with my old boots, the ones
I used on my first trip, with the theory that I knew where blisters
would form based on past experience. So, I was ready. I applied
moleskin this morning over the spots where previous blisters had
long since vanished and set out with confidence - and instead of
my new boots, a pair of boots that were already broken in with 700
miles behind them from the previous trip. I felt great; I knew I
could make it! Jim, on the other hand, had not broken his boots
in, with the exception of wearing them around the campus. He did
not take my advice from the beginning about putting moleskin on
his feet to help prevent blisters from forming. By the time we arrived
on Frosty Mountain he had his boots off and begun the daily ritual
of applying the material around his already forming blisters. Moleskin
is a felt-like material with an adhesive on one side that is applied
to areas where rubbing is occurring, or around an area where a blister
has already formed to help protect the area from further rubbing.
Few hikers begin the trip without any blisters at all, so I felt
lucky.
We
only met a couple of other hikers on our way to Springer Mountain,
the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, and signed the register
that was enclosed in a traditional mailbox nailed to a large oak
tree on the summit. I dedicated my entry to Dave Giger, my best
friend from high school, and gave a long, extremely loud war cry
proclaiming that "Gonzo!" was back on the trail. Gonzo!
became my trail name two years ago when I decided the spirit of
the word suited the expedition. The name came about as a result
of an expedition that Dave and I made to Chester, Illinois to locate
fossilized ripple marks along the banks of the Mississippi River.
Dave climbed above me on the bluff to look, while I searched below.
While looking for the fossils, a bunch of prickly pear cactus came
flying out of nowhere as I heard a loud "Gonzo!" being
yelled from the adjacent cliff. In that spirit I chose "Gonzo!"
as my trail name - going for it
. No holds barred! Whether
self named or coined by someone else as a result of something typical
about the hiker, everyone usually ends up with a trail name for
use in the trail registers located at the shelters. Jim became known
as the "Orange Crush" due to his bright orange t-shirt
advertising Orange Crush soda. Together we chose to be called the
"Biumvirate Pedestrian League" or BPL for short.
On the summit of Springer Mountain, we met Rich Newday, another
prospective thru hiker (one who hikes the trail in one season) and
my head expanded since he was impressed with my knowledge of the
trail. All the knowledge gained by having been on this first section
once before. We expected to find Rich at Cross Trails Shelter, our
first nights lodging just over a mile past the summit, but I guess
he decided to hike a little farther. However, the shelter was not
empty when we arrived. We met Tommy Tillman, and his girlfriend
Kathy Parr, who were out for a short hike. Tom wet our appetites
to reach the end of the trail by telling us about some of the good
things that we would find in Maine if we made it that far, but was
soon off to get his Volkswagen and drive to a spot close enough
for Kathy to walk to and be picked up. He said he had hiked the
whole trail in the 1970's. I guess she did not enjoy hiking as much
as Tom did. We had a great conversation with Kathy while Tom went
for the car. It was then that I learned that there was a way to
come within two miles of the summit of Springer by car, thus cutting
the eight miles of the approach trail down to two. I don't think
you would want to take a nice car on that road, however.
The temperature at about 2:15 pm when we reached the shelter after
traveling a mere 1.2 miles of the official Appalachian Trail was
between 56 to 60 degrees, and I had to wear my sweat pants to keep
myself comfortable. Traveling the 10 miles from Amicalola Falls
headquarters to Cross Trails lean-to had taken us five hours, approximately
two miles per hour. Not bad for our first day. We took a few pictures
and then sat around and listened to rock and roll music coming out
of Jim's miniature radio. Boy are we roughing it now!
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