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May 27,
Friday
This
morning we were up at 5:50 again in search of a spectacular sunrise.
I thought it would be great to watch the sunrise from the Balds
near Rocky Top a few miles farther up the trail. Ate a Kit Kat candy
bar for breakfast this morning so I would not have to wake all the
rest with my supersonic jet engine Svea 123 stove used to boil water
and cook most of our meals. This stove is very reliable, somewhat
heavy, being made out of solid brass, and makes a loud blast furnace
sound when burning at full throttle. It is really nothing more than
a pressurized Bunsen burner. At that time of the morning it would
have very rudely awakened every hiker in the park and put more fear
in their minds than the bear from the previous night.
The sun was mostly up when we topped out on the mountain nearest
the shelter; however, the views from around the Rocky Top and Thunderhead
area that morning were numerous and spectacular in the morning light.
There were no clouds in the sky, what clouds there were filled the
valleys below giving us that "on top of the world" feel
as we traversed the ridge high above the rest of the world. It was
a bit chilly at 40 degrees this morning at six o'clock, but later
warmed up. Spotted another deer in velvet along the trail.
After twelve miles of hiking, we stopped at Siler's Bald shelter
for lunch, then moved on toward Clingman's Dome. The weather held,
and we had many fine views on the trail as we marched toward the
highest point on the Appalachian Trail on Clingman's Dome. Clingman's
Dome is almost the highest point in the Smokies, but at 6630 feet
above sea level, is beat out by Mt. Mitchell, supposedly a few feet
taller. There is a futuristic observation tower on the top of Clingman's
Dome that has a spiraling concrete walkway that takes you to the
top for a true 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains. There
are plaques facing each of the cardinal points and those in between
with pictures of the mountains with each mountain peak labeled for
your convenience. The view was grand, but in some ways not as impressive
as others. There were good views from the top, but I felt somewhat
of a letdown. Other views we have had were better, this was just
a 360 degree panorama. Sure you might be able to see farther, but
the mountains don't look as cool as other places. I think it has
to do with the fact that the mountains appear smaller from so high
up.
We pushed on past the summit to Mount Collins Shelter for the night.
This shelter is between ¼ and ½ miles off the Appalachian
Trail, but the location is remote, with a feeling of wilderness
and the smell of Christmas from the numerous Balsam Fir trees that
grow in the area.
We met a thru-hiker at the shelter named Wade, who had begun hiking
again at Clingman's Dome after an off-trail stay somewhere. There
is public access by car to Clingman's Dome for those not willing
to hike the thousands of feet up to see the view. There were many
little red squirrels around the shelter darting here and there looking
for food and a chance to steal yours. Once the day is done and you
settle into a shelter, the boredom sometimes sets in. Jim could
not find anything to do but think about eating. I suggested he build
a fire since it was cold and he did not want to go to bed yet. If
thru-hikers would hike during the time that they get bored sitting
around doing nothing, their adventure would surely take a lot less
time. The day usually seems to be rush to the shelter and then sit
and be bored. A strange life. The draw of a shelter can be a powerful
addiction
Gonzo!
Appalachian Trail Journals ©1983
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